anyone know of cheap companies that move cars interstate? after the cheapest option available. melb -> bris, best price i found is $780

have you tried rail?

I paid $550 to rail freight my car from Brisbane to Melbourne using someone that Wridgeways recommended. Was called CRE or CBR or something, it is Toll Auto Logistics new name.

Edit: It was door to door too.

Am I missing something? Why not just drive it?

Am I missing something? Why not just drive it?

Or if you cant spare the time, pay a friend like $150 and a plane ticket to do it for you.

yeah and $200 worth of fuel, bringing it back to rail being the best way

Would be closer to $100 in fuel if the car has reasonable economy

1692 km from melbourne to bris. Lets say reasonable economy is 9.5L/100klms, at an average of a dollar a litre is $160. So no, it's not closer to $100. That's not taking into account how far your house is to the GPO, and how economical your mate drives, and how much crap might be in the car too weighing it down, and what kind of detour your mate takes etc. Thats why i said $200.

lol who the f*** are you kidding? ^ (ALT_F4, not MrHardware)
it would cost about $300 in fuel alone to drive to melbourne from brisbane

I get 800k's to a tank (highway) in a brand new turbo diesel hilux - that is f***ing awesome economy and thats not even enough to get you from BNE <-> SYD in one tank (76L)

so 9.5L/100klms as i said. except you're forking out at least $1.15 for diseasel.
just remember if you stop to fill at some black stump town, fuel is gonna be 15-20% or so dearer.

I bet i've got the only car here that could do bris to mel in under $100.

Last week I picked up a boat from Sydney. f*** doing that again. Just out in on the train for only $550 or whatever thats better than all the bs I went through.
Fuel cost me about $180 each way so $360 total.

Gotta remember fuel ain't cheap i nthe southern states.

So no, it's not closer to $100.

My completely-packed corolla ('91) did over 500km on the first 40L of petrol from Sydney to Bris.

So: (1692km total / conservative 500km per tank) * 40L * 0.86c/L = $116 for me.

The fuel economy database backs me up: Link

Obviously bigger cars using different fuel will be different, but I'm just saying that generalising using averages isn't very useful as one's car can vastly differ from the average :)

last edited by parabol at 12:04:16 22/Jan/09

toll have a service. not sure how much

wtf

where are you getting petrol for 86c/l ??

Just use rail, much easier.

where are you getting petrol for 86c/l ??

er, down the road? carindale, last couple of days.

Looking at interstate fuel prices, I wasn't aware Melb was that much more expensive.

yeah we dont generally pay under $1.10~ here in syd, I then pay an extra 'get f***ed all you famers tax' on diesel of about 20-30c/l

i think its more of a 'you're using more oil per litre' cost.

http://www.autotrans.com.au/

These are the Toll dudes to get a quote from.

not true, they're both generated from crude oil and there is very little - no waste in the process

http://www.theoildrum.com/uploads/6/fractioning_column1.jpg

there is a significantly higher tax on diesel than petrol in this country, rudd increased it himself recently

Diesel is generally simpler to refine from petroleum than gasoline.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fractional_distillation

last edited by tequila at 12:52:04 22/Jan/09

who deleted their post?
also, LPG on top again.
and diesel is no longer easier/quicker to refine than petrol, thanks to the ever lower govt mandated low sulphur diesel.
and yes, there is more oil in one litre of diesel than one litre of petrol, and the cost of oil is generally the largest cost in one litre of oil-based fuel.
and i thought it was 38.143cpl for both petrol and diesel? and it has been like that for about 7 or 8 years?

last edited by MrHardware at 12:58:30 22/Jan/09

if diesel is simpler to refine, why is it more expensive? because of trucks etc..?

Because of the Tax imposed upon it.

also because way-back-when, it was only primary production / fishing trawelers etc that used diesel, very rarely would Joe citizen use it
so it was easy enough to tax the f*** out of it and say you're a business so it should cost more

you know, i'm pretty sure there's about the same amount of tax/excise on a litre of diseasel as there is on a litre of petrol

great more people moving up here.

surely there must be somewhere else half decent for people from Melb and Syd to move too?

no offense intended to OP, just making comment on our over-population problem here in Bris.

last edited by sLaps_Forehead at 13:12:57 22/Jan/09

1500 mexicans a week move to QLD
I don't mind so much because they're pushing my property value higher and higher

but i'm sick of the traffic, even though I'm living in Sydney at the moment I fully intend to return to Brisbane to raise a family etc
I dont really want it to end up like Sydney where you have to travel 2hrs+ each way to get to work

I bet i've got the only car here that could do bris to mel in under $100.

how much would you like to put on that?

a cheese sandwich.
why, do you?
a diseasel car would need to do less than five litres a hundred kilometres to get under $100 (assuming $1.20/ltr)

last edited by MrHardware at 19:43:01 22/Jan/09

a cheese sandwich eh
that's some real conviction!

and yes, yes I do!

oh i should clarify, they're fully airconditioned kays

is there any other kind of kays? although I must admit my patrol's aircon is busted atm from when the radius arm ripped out of the chassis and crushed the gas pipe, but it makes no tangible difference on or off cos it's a diesel

if I don't declare excise (asif you would) biodiesel costs me about 35cents a litre to make (safely over-estimating) from straight vege oil including my time at labour rates, and that's just using makeshift equipment and not even buying the oil/methanol/lye in bulk. I've got a friend who's very handy with a welder and I have access to the goodies I'd need to make a larger scale setup which would negate most of the time-intensive part of the process. that setup would fit inside a 1x2metre floor space which is actually les space than using backyard bodge equipment. it's also cheaper from waste vege oil but I couldn't be buggered spending the extra time. I can't run it in the X5 cos it's expressly prohibited by the vehicle warranty but it's not for my patrol, which incidentally is now out of warranty anyway.

the patrol uses about 8L/100 on the highway depending which tyres I am running which range from 33" to 36" in diameter.

really though, this is all hot air cos I don't make my fuel usually. I experimented with it and worked out what it would take to make enough to fuel my patrol full time and then ended up buying the X5 for my daily driving anyway which kind of threw that idea out the window.


last edited by Jim at 20:24:04 22/Jan/09

Do they dip tanks over here?? Cause i bought a bunch of red diesel (eg non excise cheap as s***e diesel) in the uk for my euro adventure earlier this year and i had to make a run to the ferry in dover from dorset with a full 80litre tank plus 4 jerrycans full of the stuff.. if i got pulled i would have gotten reamed by the cops

huh, homemade biodiesel hey. i could very well put up with a diesel for 35c/ltr! that's very interesting jim. i'm impressed! wow, do you gain/lose either power torque with homemade biodiesel? and 8L/100klms x 35c/ltr is rather good, beats LPG hands down.

most people reckon they gain a bit of power and maintain their mileage (some report slightly better, some report slightly worse mileage) - I can't tell any difference but maybe I haven't driven on it enough to notice. I guess if I ran bio non-stop for a decent period and then swapped back to dino it might be easier to tell. the main thing you have to watch if you decide to run it continuously is depending on what your fuel system seals and washers are made of and how old they are you will probably need to do a one-off replace on some of them as the biodiesel acts a bit like a solvent. and of course there's the vehicle warranty which often rules out using it in a new vehicle, at least in australia.

it's definitely a good price when you make it but there's a couple of issues - you have to source and store the materials and of course store the fuel you make if you get into larger batches, dispose of the resulting glycerine (not really an issue for most people, easy to use it as fertiliser on your garden) plus depending on your setup there's the time factor as well. when you start out it takes more time cos you don't have the whole thing down pat and you're likely using tins and drums and an electric drill etc to mix it all up. there's also the excise issue. believe it or not, you're supposed to pay the fuel excise on it even though you made it yourself. I think you can get an exemption if you periodically get the fuel tested to prove it meets some standard but that's just another thing you have to do. not sure on that though, been a while since I checked.

the other thing with fuels is that price, while the most direct issue in terms of your pocket, isn't the primary issue in the grand scheme of things imo. if large volumes of people consume biodiesel what negative impacts does that have on other things, compared to other fuels? I think we've already seen a lot of what can happen in that regard, with certain types of food shortages or market hiking due to sudden production of large volumes of biofuels. at least until there's another viable source of vege oil that doesn't cause major issues in existing markets.

if all I personally cared about was price I would most likely run lpg because it's already very cheap and you don't have to make it yourself.

Lets say reasonable economy is 9.5L/100klms

That's hardly reasonable for a large stint of highway driving. My 19 year old car gets that figure for daily driving.

wow, that is very, very awesome jim. if LPG prices ever move from really cheap i'll consider getting a diesel and bio-dieseling it up.
Alt-F4, my $200 figure was for a real car, not a two-decade old windup toy. Ps, how often do you need to replace the rubber band?

Depends what your definition of "normal car" is. Anything 6 cylinder or less that isn't a sports car or some other monstrosity generally has economy in the vicinity of or better than 10L/100km if driven sensibly.

here's a primer on making it, this is one of the first sites I came across a couple of years ago: http://journeytoforever.org/biodiesel.html

and this forum is good, specially the local info for suppliers and buying in bulk with other locals: http://www.biofuelsforum.com/#australian_biodiesel

and here's a mob that make a nice home kit if you wanna make larger amounts without rigging up your own gear, expensive though: http://homebiodieselkits.com/

Taken from http://homebiodieselkits.com/oilguide.html

Pre filter oil:

If your oil source has "floaters" or chunks of small material in it, it is always wise to pre filter before processing. The more you can remove before processing, the better. Many people choose to make their own screen filter while others choose to purchase pre-fabricated filters. There are two main types of filters to buy, the bag filter and the cartridge filter. Bag filters are simply screened bags that oil can be poured through in stages to filter the oil. Be sure to start with a 200-100 micron filter, and then work down to 50 - 30 microns. One tip is to pre heat your oil before filtering. By heating the oil, the filtration process happens faster. The second type of filter is a cartridge filter. These types of filters work by pumping the oil through a spin on filter or in-line element filter. These filters can be sourced Online or through your local parts store. For the do it yourselfers, you can be creative in sourcing materials to make your own filtering system. One tip is to use a pair of blue jeans. Sew the legs together, place over a large drum, and pour your oil through the legs. This easy and inexpensive method is just one example of what can be used to pre filter your oil.

Sounds like a huge amount of effort to go to, honestly if it took the average person 2-3 hours per week to produce enough biodiesel to run the car all week, they'd have been better off working for their 20 bucks an hour and putting $60 worth of fuel in the car



haha just found this too;
from http://homebiodieselkits.com/oildrawsystem.html

* Pre-screen foot valve
* Oil tube storage container to eliminate mess
* Our complete oil collection guide.
* Sample oil collection agreement.

its a bit of pvc pipe tied to a 44 gallon drum for $295 ..lol

http://us.st12.yimg.com/us.st.yimg.com/I/yhst-58408316580279_2034_245365

last edited by tequila at 23:05:55 22/Jan/09

last edited by tequila at 23:06:22 22/Jan/09

i thought it was the glycerol in the oil that was the drama with biodiesel anyway?

but i've heard a fuel heater can help eliminate that problem anyway.

Sounds like a huge amount of effort to go to

the text you quoted is only of concern if you're using waste vegetable oil, like the stuff that fish and chip shops throw away for example. if you're using straight vegetable oil all you need do essentially is add the koh/naoh and methanol, cook it a bit and tip off the glycerine

and the raw cost of the fuel isn't the primary concern for everyone either - there may be other factors behind spending the time than simply deriving cheaper fuel: http://journeytoforever.org/biofuel.html#whymake

yeah I can understand why some 'green' people would want to do it, but the text I quoted was but a small amount of the instructions from that page.
You'd almost have to be a really passionate tree hugging hippy to want to go to that effort, so you're right - saving money probably isnt the primary motivation for lots of these people

I think you may be missing the point - there's a large difference between making it from waste vegetable oil and straight vegetable oil. I don't mind going to the effort to make it from SVO and I'm pretty sure I'm not a really passionate tree hugging hippy

my next car/truck/fourby will be a diesel...

been researching biodiesel for years and have even started to get some gear together for it.

run ethanol you jerks

do you mean E10? or E85? or E100? Either option is a joke.
E10 is just worse value for money, and E85 requires modification. If you're gonna modify your car to run a high octane, low energy content fuel, modify it for LPG, at least then you don't pay a 38cpl excise.

last edited by MrHardware at 11:33:24 24/Jan/09

e100

clean, sexy, seductive